This was HUGE for me and I totally forgot to mention that when we were in San Genesio (I can't keep up the posting very well while traveling) we met with friends to stay for two days and they took us all over. The most exciting part was going to their church where recent evidence suggests that Charlemagne's parents (Pepin the Short and Bertrada) were buried in a vault under the front door! Evidently the Vatican has sent emissaries to check on this, but it will take a lengthy process to be proved (or disproved) and they are not in a hurry as it will make significant changes to church and civil history if true.
Simply a pretty gate and garden.
Home in San Genesio where we stayed with friends David and Claudia.
The lower level was once a barn with the upstairs for living quarters. The property now is gorgeously restored and redesigned with a big inground pool at the side.
The living room which used to be the stable.
The kitchen was the shed for tools.
David and Claudia have returned from about 15 years in Africa where he taught English and she taught art - this is her pottery work of Nigerian boat people.
The meals that came from this kitchen were beyond description delicious!
The Church of San Ginesio where perhaps Charlemagne's parents are buried, under the door. Note the small engraved image to the right top of the archway.
These images are now believed by some to represent Pepin and Bertrada.
The central square - this town is noted as one of the most picturesque and called 'the balcony of the Sibillini mountains' for its views.
I loved this holy water font.
And every town and village has its own unique central courtyard water fountain.
A Pretty Place
Ciao San Genesio
Driving south
Spring flowers everywhere.
It was accidental that we discovered this strange housing called 'trullis' in southern Italy and then arranged our itinerary to include Alberobello in southern Italy.
Arriving in the evening, the town seemed enchanted and perfectly suited to fairies and elves - not that we saw any of course.
As usual we were looking for food - and were not disappointed.
I especially loved the trulli prints all over the walls of this restaurant.
Are these dwellings unique or what?
First built in the 15th century of limestone but w/o mortar so when the duke came to demand house tax, the inhabitants would knock them down!
When the town finally had its own legislation, 16th century I believe, the homes were built with mortar and improved on over the years.
Sorry Junior but I needed a hat - my hair was pretty frightening.
Church of San Antonio in the town centre.
A small fresco inside.
Street Cafe Culture - wherever we go - the way life should be!
Eli and Jessica taking a break - we do a LOT of walking.
Arrivederci Alberobello - Trulli a Wonderful Experience!
Leaving Orvieto we went through many small towns and most importantly, through Assisi which can be seen for miles on a majestic hillside, the town almost fully built in limestone and reflecting the sun so beautifully.
Riding along in our automobile ... no sign of Chuck Berry though.
This charming old house was along the road as we left Orvieto. It seemed to have lost a chunk from its side.
Isn't this Norman?
Assisi in the distance - it's breathtaking
Arriving in town where the city wall provides a great stone bench
Looking up toward one of the many churches
Our lunches along the way have been the best
Church of San Francisco
The surrounding area
Little nun pruning roses through the garden gate
Francis returning from the military to tell his father he was giving up all worldly goods and embracing religion
Leaving Assisi
The topiary spells 'pax' and at the entrance to the city is a sign of 'Welcome to the City of Peace' - if only the entire world had this message.
When planning this trip we came upon an article about the Trullis in the area of Alberobello and decided we'd add them to our trip - superb decision.
We arrived in Alberobello in the evening and it seemed like a place inhabited by fairies and elves - such unique housing!
We were all hungry when this sign caught our eye.
The meal was terrific but most especially I loved the trulli prints all over the walls.
Food Rating? Superb.
Trullis, built in the 15th century of limestone and w/o mortar initially so when the duke came to collect house tax, they would knock them down!
Once they had their own legislature the locals began building with mortar.
The town church, San Antonio, is charming.
There are thousands of these quaint little homes - they remind me actually of crofts in the Hebrides. I rented one once, in north Barra.
Our weather has been outstanding - sunny clear and cool days - perfect for traveling.
Sorry Jean Junior but I had to wear my hat - it was colder than it looks!
Eli and Jessica taking a break
A tiny mural from the church
The cafe culture is in every town - as life should be!
Leaving Florence we passed through some lovely little towns as we made our way to Orvieto.
This little village was not even on our map but when we stopped and pulled out our lunch to eat on a bench, there were heads popping out of all the windows above us. We waved and they waved back and we were sure to leave our bench immaculate before driving away ....
Florence seems beyond compare till driving through the countryside, gorgeous with olive groves and vineyards
Charming Houses
I tried to imagine what life would be like for the centuries of home dwellers
It is spring and my camera could not capture the nuance of color in the sprawling background
One of the little towns we passed through - all one way avenues and even though our car is small, we'd still have to pull in the side view mirrors
Orvieto, just within the city wall gates ... from my hotel window
Little birds perched across from my window
An older church at the edge of the town
One of the main houses off the central plaza
Sculpture over the door of the church
The Orvieto Duomo
Famed for its Frescoes
The Duomo facade
My Last Flash leaving the Orvieto Hotel
Photos are not allowed in the Uffizi or the Academia but I of course did take a few at the Michelangelo Library and Santa Croce along with some strolling through the Duomo and along the Ponte Vecchio ...
Morning cappucino at the Orto De'Medici - great hotel in a superb location... next to the Academia
The courtyard of Michelangelo's Library
The Library Staircase
Close up with its scalloped edges
Inside the library - with the collections at the end of the room
The individual desks with inscriptions at the end of each desk set
Under glass ... the books are beyond belief
Gates into the old city of Florence
The unAccidental Tourist
Music weeping at the Tomb of Michelangelo
the Tomb of Machiavelli
Part of the robe of St. Francis of Assisi
The Medici Chapel
Treats after dinner ....
Back to our hotel ... we love it!
First day of our trip ... Leysin to Pisa and finishing up in Florence
This Pass was made famous when Napolean had artillery hauled through it in the early 1800s. Since then it has been redesigned for bus and car travel, including long miles of avalanche shelters. It's about 6600 feet in altitude.
Driving the Simplon Pass today between Switzerland and Italy ....
You can't tell by the photograph but we were WAY up in the alps
Arriving at the Gate in Pisa ...
Basilica and Leaning Tower of Pisa
... and OH does it lean ... doesn't appear as crooked in photos but ti's quite a sight!
Jessica and Eli - Awesome Couple to travel with!
Yes I know I should take this into PhotoShop and straighten it out ... but hey I really loved the Leaning Tower so why not let the church lean as well? Let's me be a lazy photographer!
Check out the sky - glorious day - and so nice to be here versus the summer with crowds
Bronze Panels from the Basilica Doors here and below ...
... finishing off our tour with infamous gelato ... mmmmmm!
Our hotel in Florence is beautiful
But then ... most everything in Florence is beautiful...
The week was not easy but we managed through. I was stressed on Friday with two classes presenting their skits of Durrenmatt's The Visit (tragicomedy) to invited guests - admin, faculty and students in our classroom.
My one small class of big crazy boys (my lost boys) produced a shadow puppet play that was quite adorable. When they realized their audience was really enjoying their show, one of them came out and did some dancing in between acts to the delight of all. They are 5 boys who come to class bleary eyed each morning and inevitably ask if they can run to the cafeteria to bring back a cup of tea. For how much they make me laugh, it's the least I can do for them.
The other class produced a traditional style play which was excellent. When I refused to allow them to use real cigarettes for their props, they rolled up huge sheets of white paper and colored the tips orange and gray - hilarious! They also brought in Coke bottles and labeled them "cognac" and "whiskey". So funny. One boy brought in a black fitted cashmere coat to play the butler. I would bet my life that the coat was worth at the very least 1k, with an Armani label. No cheap copies of anything at this school!
So .. I'm off but hopefully back soon with some awesome photos - here's our schedule, hitting the road tomorrow at 8:30:
Sunday, March 20 – Leysin to Florence
2 nights in Florence at Orto De' Medici Hotel
Monday, March 21 – Florence
Tuesday, March 22 – Florence to Sienna and to Orvieto
Hotel Aquila Bianca in Orvieto
Wednesday, March 23 – Orvieto to San Ginesio via Assisi
2 nights in San Ginesio
Thursday, March 24 – San Ginesio
Friday, March 25 – San Ginesio to Alberobello
Saturday, March 26– Bari to Dubrovnik
Miro Studio Apartments in Dubrovnik
Sunday, March 27 Dubrovnik
Monday, March 28 to Hvar
Tuesday, March 29 to Split
Wednesday, March 30 hmmm ...
Thursday, March 31 to Zadar
Friday, April 1 – Zadar to Ancona
Saturday, April 2 – Ancona to Lake Como
Sunday, April 3 – Lake Como to Leysin
I could live my life in the company of old books gladly, so that is why I think this old book found me, forlorn on the floor of the library last week, calling my name ... I left a note for the librarian and trundled happily back to my apartment. Upon opening, the book fell into many pieces, some of the pages still connected, in other words, this book was probably never read completely even though it was printed in 1914. What first caught my eye was the handsome font style, and then of course, the engravings took my breath. Here's a little history on Alexis Forel and some of what I found in the book which may bore you to tears, but I'll make up for it in a livelier future entry!
Since its foundation in 1918, the Alexis Forel Museum is situated in a historic building of the 16th Century in the town center of Morges.
11 parlors and rooms receive the permanent collections and temporary exhibitions.
The heart of the building, the “Italian” court dated 1670, offers visitors a secret and privileged space. (that will soon be me visiting!)
...and here is Forel's book that started me into this little quest to discover what I could about him. Notice the font ... it melts my heart! Every page is exquisite. Although my preference is black and white engraving, some of the color plates are also very beautiful. If I'm losing you at this point, feel free to make a hasty departure and I won't blame you one bit!
I tried to collect images that reminded me of our Dearest Aunt Betty that would show her love of life, her excellent taste, some of her travels and a little bit of who she is from early days to now ... beloved aunt and adored by all her nieces and nephews ... and everyone who knows her! Happy Birthday Dearest Betty and Wishing You a Fantastic Year Ahead! xoxoxoxxoxoxoxoxoxoxo
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